Despite it being a cruise ship destination, it certainly doesn't feel crowded when a ship is docked north of town but it is livelier with every restaurant open and hawkers, itinerant vendors, and more eking out a living.
It's also not terribly far from Chetumal - about an hour and a half of good road and we go from the bay to the sea with its sandy beaches and waves breaking on the reef.
This last trip we stayed at Koox Matan Ka'an, a very pleasant, clean hotel right in the middle of town and just a short 60 meters or so from the Malecon and beach. As you can see from the larger map, Chinchorro Banks, a large atoll, is not that far offshore and will be the subject of far more scrutiny in the near future. I'm looking forward to some serious diving again.